Interested in a kink?

Only 10%-15% of kinkajous stay in the homes they start out in. They are typically relinquished over and over.

Research and hands-on experience is SO important when it comes to wanting to own and owning exotics. What specific questions do you have? Keep them in mind and please ask away, after you read the following information. Kinkajous are a very special species with very individual and sensitive personalities. So I'll offer some information that I think is super important when it comes to considering ownership — and particularly, I DO NOT recommend them as “pets.”

Consider the list below carefully. My advice — don’t do it. You’re not going to be the exception. Kinkajous are all fun and games until they hit about 18 months (that span greatly lessens should you choose to keep the kink intact). More often then not, people give these animals up to an endless cycle of rehoming because they don’t fully consider what it means to own a kinkajou. I’ve seen this happen too many times. It’s heartbreaking. Don’t be that person.

When considering a kinkajou:

1. They are expensive. Purchase price is typically $2500-$3500 for a captive bred baby. I suggest purchasing one from a credible USDA breeder or broker; especially for your first kink. I DO NOT recommend purchasing a “rescue” or a “rehome.” They are complex and more often than not, nearly impossible to transition into an animal you can safely and entirely interact with. And do not purchase from exotic pet shops — they’ll tell you anything to make big bucks off of you.
Spay/neuter is a MUST if you want to keep a “pet quality” animal; they can also receive shots and regular vet visits. Emergency visits can cost $1000+ easily.
They require primarily a fruit diet which is expensive. Housing can become very expensive as well as they require much space and enrichment. They can be destructive. Household repairs, replacing of technology and other valuables, etc. are all possibilities. I have heard and experienced some horror stories!

2. You must have a vet in your area that sees kinkajous and has experience, prior to purchase. Research prices at that vet. As stated before, spay/neuter is a MUST if you want to keep a pet-quality animal; they can also receive shots and regular vet visits. Emergencies can be very pricy and many emergency vets will not see them after hours. Again, I have stories to share regarding this, and they are not pleasant. Will all these costs fit within your budget?

3. Housing — The average state requirement for a kink is 6x6x8 (Florida Fish and Wildlife), which isn’t entirely appropriate. These are high energy animals that require a lot of space, A LOT. I estimate an 10X8X10 at least, for a single kinkajou. However, they would need “out” time.

4. They are nocturnal. This is not an animal that can typically be retrained to flop its schedule. They innately sleep during the day and are awake ALL night. If you want a creature that's up with you during a normal schedule, look into a diurnal animal — although those too carry many responsibilities. I dedicate many hours to mine each night. They start waking up around 8 p.m. and are active until sunlight. When I go to bed (around 1 a.m.), they are safely in their room, after several hours of interaction and having space to be active. That being said, they can also be noisy.

5. They are smart — they say as smart as a 3-year-old (I think smarter). For example, we baby proofed our home as they will get into cabinets, closets, onto shelves, climb walls, etc., and ours figured out everything. My one female even learned how to open our sliding glass doors. They can unlock their enclosures. My one male understands how door knobs work, but cannot turn them. Thank goodness! This is also why enrichment is so important. New activities, furniture, and foods can keep a kinkajou enriched. I circulate enrichments daily. Trying to stay one step ahead of them is a challenge.

6. They are strong-willed. For most, "no" is not a word in their vocabulary. They do what they want and obsess about whatever you don't want them to do. Once they have an item, it is difficult to get it away from them — they are great thieves. When they want to be in something or somewhere, they will relentlessly try to be there. In some cases, they don't adhere well to redirection. They become vocal and bitey. I've witnessed anything from defensive behavior to aggressive bites. You need to establish a mutual respect with the animal. Discipline is tricky and ineffective. It will hurt your relationship. Redirection and training are much better options, but take time and consistency.

7. Bites are bad — I mean bad. More often than not, I have heard of and experienced kinkajous (no matter how well they were raised) biting in defense, frustration, or unpredictability. This is why spaying/neutering is so paramount. Hormones can catalyze an aggressive or unpredictable kinkajou; as well as age, diet, small enclosure, lack of enrichment, relocation (even a simple move with the same owner), overstimulation, etc. Bites can be pretty horrific. I've witnessed them and have had my fair share. Bites are not a matter of IF, but WHEN. Will you love your kinkajou unconditionally when it bites you? Will you make appropriate sacrifices and accommodations when you can no longer handle it?

Kinkajous have canines comparable to a cat. Their bites are deep punctures that easily tear through skin, muscle, and into bone. Nerve damage and infection are almost certain. Most kinkajous latch onto your body part and lock their jaw like a vice. Or, they relentlessly bite you repeatedly. It can be unpredictable or have warning. They are painful and scary.

Not only do they have a terrible bite, they also have large, sharp claws. Being scratched is certain. I do not suggest removing or filing canine teeth or declawing a kinkajou. If you cannot respect that these realities come with keeping a kinkajou, DO NOT KEEP ONE.

8. Diets need to be varied and balanced. They can be at risk for obesity and diabetes with improper diet. Diet = 80% fruits and veggies, 20% protein and other. You can visit our diet information on this website. I am also happy to provide examples for housing and there is an enrichment segment on this website as well.

9. They can live a long life — some are documented at 40 years in captivity! The average is 20-25 years. Still a lifelong commitment.

10. They are mostly social animals. Many enjoy the company of other pets (within reason, know your pets before allowing them to interact and no small animals), people, and kinks. However, I do not recommend allowing adult kinkajous with children — this is dangerous.
They are going to want your attention and need some form of it. Even my most aggressive kinks enjoy a conversation (while in their enclosures).
If you travel a lot or work long hours, this is something to consider, as it is not fair to the kinkajou. They typically bond closely to 1-2 people. Some are not interested in other animals and will crave your attention. However, some can be more independent. They are very individual animals. You cannot expect them to behave like a domesticated animal.

Social doesn’t mean they need to be cuddled. This isn’t a primate that craves interaction. Most kinks like to be around people or other animals, while having their own agenda — they are very busy.

11. They require grooming. They will be messy and therefore end up with food and waste in their fur. Their hands and feet often get dirty. Kinkajous secrete a brown oil that can need to be tended to. Regular baths are something you will want to get your babe used to. I use baby wipes between baths for a daily wipe down. Nails grow fast and scratches come with the territory. Nail clipping will also need to be a regular activity, if you choose.

12. They are destructive. We are constantly making renovations to our kinkajou room as they figure how to pull things off the walls and get into areas we professionally had blocked off. They love to strip the paint off the walls, no matter how I try to correct the situation. They chew things, relieve themselves everywhere, move furniture, knock things over — you name it. The oils in their fur dye the walls and enclosures. We have replaced floors and regularly repaint. They chew wires, shoes, technology, etc. and pull things apart. I regularly patch holes in the walls (from pulling hooks and nails out). This is just a little taste of the insanity.

13. Daily cleaning is a must, and I suggest weekly deep cleaning. They make a lot of waste, throw their foods, and rub their oil. To keep up with a healthy environment, cleaning will need to be a daily practice. I clean twice a day and deep clean once a week.

14. Most cannot be litter trained. The procyonidae family in general are very difficult to do this with. They are arboreal and therefore like to go off of high places. Some people are able to get them to use the same perch to go off of and then it becomes routine. Some choose to use their owners as that perch as they feel safe with them. They have a fast metabolism and defecate a lot. Many owners are still trying to prefect a system.

15. They do not travel well. As mentioned, if you travel a lot it will not be favorable for the kinkajou. They typically do not travel well, so taking them with you is probably not an option (even for errands and daily outings, not suggested and typically not legal). Finding a kennel to board them at will be difficult to find and vets can be expensive to do this at. They commonly don’t do well with an unfamiliar pet sitter. If you’re in or near South Florida, Kinkatopia will board, so you’re lucky.

16. ROUTINE, ROUTINE, ROUTINE. They need a routine. I said they are sensitive. Any deviation in routine will be immediately noticed. For example, mine are accustomed to me being in the house in the evenings. If I am out until 10 or 11 p.m. and the house is dark, they act as if their world has ended. They move cages and do extra naughty things. They expect to be fed and let out at a certain time. They expect certain individual attentions. They expect me to feed and interact with them. These expectations quickly become needs. They need their people, schedule, and environment. If routine is interrupted, they quickly become inconsolable.

17. After the first year to 18 months, they can become very particular about who they interact with. Many find that their kinka is only comfortable with family members or a select few. This is not an animal you can invite the whole world over to interact with.

18. Can you legally own a kinkajou in your state or region? Do you need a permit? Get confirmation, otherwise you are putting the animals at risk.

19. Kinkajous are not good with children. Most kinks have short fuses. Children have high energy and little-to-no boundaries. They do not mix well. Do not risk it. And no, your situation will not be “different.”

20. Your kinkajou may turn against you without reason. This is fact. You are literally playing Russian roulette with a species, a personality, a wild animal. The slightest thing can throw them against you.
I REPEAT: Bites are not a matter of IF, but WHEN. Will you love your kinkajou unconditionally when it bites you? Will you make appropriate sacrifices and accommodations when you can no longer handle it?

21. They are high-energy: I get asked all the time, “When will my kinkajou calm down?” Or another favorite, “She/he is so hyper, is that normal?” Yes — it’s a kinkajou; they are hyper and nonstop. If you can’t accommodate a consistently moving, high-energy animal than a kinkajou is not the right choice for you.

This listing is a compilation of things I have experienced and learned to be vigilant of. They are not easy, no exotic is. It's a relationship where both parties need to meet halfway. Most of the time, it's the human readjusting their ways to comfortably work with the kink. Regardless of being captive bred, they will always ultimately be wild animals. I suggest finding some kinks to meet and work with. Talk to experts and owners. Keep in mind that what you see on social media is just a blip in ownership and typically a snapshot of the good times. All this being said, they are spectacular animals, but you need to recognize their limitations as a "pet.” They are amazing as babies — cute, gentle, interactive — but once you get over that one-year hump, it's a whole different ball game. Tell me, where are all the 10+ year old kinkajous at? You’ll rarely come across people who have middle-aged kinks, because they’ve given them up. You’ll rarely come across kinkas who have the same owners their entire lives. Please, make a responsible decision and stop the cycle before it begins.

I just laid out many reasons for these cases, please make the best decision with all the facts at hand.

Please let me know how else I can be of service! I'm happy to answer specific questions and share more insight via specific cases I have worked with.